Cost to Install Level 2 Charger in a Detached Garage

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H

higgins

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Apr 3, 2017
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I was curious if anyone has any experience (knowing this varies wildly by market) with installing a 240V outlet in a detached garage. The garage currently has 120V power running to it from my power station about 40-60 feet away from it. There is existing conduit running for the existing electricity (no idea if they can make use of this with 8# wire as I've seen recommended). The power station is already a 200amp power station with 13 open bays so I don't think I'll have any issues there. I'm planning on going with Clipper Creek's recommended charger for the i3 so I know I have about $565 there.

Pardon my ignorance on another question -- do I need them to just install the outlet or do I also need them to physically install the Clipper Creek unit? I'm guessing the Clipper Creek is a few screws away from being mounted and a 240V plug into the outlet but I guess I'm not 100% aware of what install takes there.

I'm a new home owner with a new EV and I just want to make sure I have a BALLPARK before I even go into pricing with local electricians. For reference, I'm in Dallas TX.
 
As to how to make the connection to the EVSE...it depends on the version of the EVSE you choose! Some are designed to be hard-wired, some come with a plug on them. If you choose one with a plug, you need to make sure they install the proper receptacle. In reality, they are the same unit - those hardwired come with a pigtail (at least the CC units do); those with a plug, have a similar pigtail, but there's a plug on the end.

An EVSE only needs three wires: two power leads (L1 and L2), and safety ground...it does not need a neutral (I'm assuming you're in the USA?). It does not need to be on a GFCI circuit because that logic is built into the EVSE. Assuming you choose their 32A unit, it will require a 40A circuit breaker (80% rule applies in the USA on this type of circuit).

There are fill limits on conduit, so without knowing what size conduit is there, and the size and quantity of wires in it currently, can't say if you can add more. Physically pulling new wires through that conduit could be problematic, depending on how it is run, how many elbows are there, etc.

The unit typically just bolts to the wall with two long screws. You'll want to find a stud to catch with them, or add a piece of plywood bridging them, then screw into the plywood or other, sufficiently sturdy materials. The things aren't particularly heavy, so things don't need to be really robust, but you wouldn't want to just screw it into say drywall unless you used a special anchor (www.wingits.com makes some that are sufficient).

Actually running the wire could take anywhere from an hour if you're really lucky, to 3-4, or even longer, if a new conduit is required. The wire is not cheap. The electrical box to make the connection or to mount the receptacle is, though. Other than wire, a breaker, box, receptacle should not cost more than $50. Labor is very much a local thing. It's not that hard to mount the EVSE yourself rather than paying an electrician to do it. Depending on whether you want the wiring hidden in the wall or clamped to the surface, or conduit or EMT installed inside the garage would depend somewhat on how exposed the wire would be to damage and aesthetics desired...that can add some time.

Mine cost me about $400 to have installed, but my power panel is in the garage. About 1/2 of that was in parts, the rest labor. I had him run EMT to a new electrical box, then the EVSE's pigtail and the new power leads were connected inside of that box (simply wire nuts).
 
jadnashuanh said:
As to how to make the connection to the EVSE...it depends on the version of the EVSE you choose! Some are designed to be hard-wired, some come with a plug on them. If you choose one with a plug, you need to make sure they install the proper receptacle. In reality, they are the same unit - those hardwired come with a pigtail (at least the CC units do); those with a plug, have a similar pigtail, but there's a plug on the end.

An EVSE only needs three wires: two power leads (L1 and L2), and safety ground...it does not need a neutral (I'm assuming you're in the USA?). It does not need to be on a GFCI circuit because that logic is built into the EVSE. Assuming you choose their 32A unit, it will require a 40A circuit breaker (80% rule applies in the USA on this type of circuit).

There are fill limits on conduit, so without knowing what size conduit is there, and the size and quantity of wires in it currently, can't say if you can add more. Physically pulling new wires through that conduit could be problematic, depending on how it is run, how many elbows are there, etc.

The unit typically just bolts to the wall with two long screws. You'll want to find a stud to catch with them, or add a piece of plywood bridging them, then screw into the plywood or other, sufficiently sturdy materials. The things aren't particularly heavy, so things don't need to be really robust, but you wouldn't want to just screw it into say drywall unless you used a special anchor (http://www.wingits.com makes some that are sufficient).

Actually running the wire could take anywhere from an hour if you're really lucky, to 3-4, or even longer, if a new conduit is required. The wire is not cheap. The electrical box to make the connection or to mount the receptacle is, though. Other than wire, a breaker, box, receptacle should not cost more than $50. Labor is very much a local thing. It's not that hard to mount the EVSE yourself rather than paying an electrician to do it. Depending on whether you want the wiring hidden in the wall or clamped to the surface, or conduit or EMT installed inside the garage would depend somewhat on how exposed the wire would be to damage and aesthetics desired...that can add some time.

Mine cost me about $400 to have installed, but my power panel is in the garage. About 1/2 of that was in parts, the rest labor. I had him run EMT to a new electrical box, then the EVSE's pigtail and the new power leads were connected inside of that box (simply wire nuts).
Click to expand...

Yup... I'm in the US (Dallas, TX) and it looks like local electrician rates are in the ~$85 an hour range.

So all in, I'm looking at (on the bad side):

100 feet (give or take a few feet) of 8# electrical wire -- ~$200
6 hours running wire (high end of where you suggested) -- ~$510
EVSE with an outlet receptacle -- $650
breaker / box / receptacle -- ~$50
labor to install breaker / box receptacle -- ~$170
mount / plug in the EVSE by myself -- free except time

Approximately ~$1,600?

Am I reading that correctly?
 
Your best bet is to get someone to give you a quote. WHile the electrician was at my home, I had him do several other things, and spent $800 total, but as I said, not all of that was in installing the EVSE. The real time unknown will be getting the wire from the house to the detached garage. If the conduit is large enough, you might even be able to run that wire yourself or with some help, then, have the electrician make the final connections at both ends...that would save a lot of money. Just make sure you use wire rated for the application in the conduit that runs underground (typically, that would require waterproof, or ground contact rated, since conduits are known to end up wet). WOrst case, the conduit is too small, and then will need to trench for a second one. If you want it turnkey, then, you'll pay full price. That's easily worth it to some. I could have done my install myself, but because I live in a condo, the city doesn't allow it - the work, all of it, must be done by a licensed electrician. Note, you should also pull a building permit for the work, and depending on where you live, that could be as little as $25, or as much as hundreds.

Unless you expect to take the EVSE along with you some times, I'd just hard-wire it. YOu could always just buy a pigtail with a plug , or put a plug on the one that comes with it later, should you wish to use it in that manner. Hard wiring it doesn't preclude you from taking it with you should you move, though, but would need to be disclosed in the advertising. But, given the projections on EV use, it might also become a big selling point. When the electrician was here, he mentioned that new homes in CT (at least some locales) they require them to install, or at least make provisions for an EVSE on the property.
 
I just installed a Chargepoint hard wired unit. In my case it was outside about 18 feet from my main panel. I under the charger myself. The electrician installed 18 feet of conduit, ran the wiring, put a new 40A breaker in my box and wired everything together. That work cost me $395 here in California. I was told that their rate for an hour service call was $75. I also have roughly $55 of permit costs from my city. Total install costs of $450.

Even though I could describe the work in detail an on site visit was required for a quote.

Sounds to me like your big question will be whether they can put the new cable into your existing conduit. If they can it should be a very easy install. If they have to put in new conduit it will get more expensive.
 
I put in a request on Amazon, a couple local electricians contacted me and quotes ranged from $300-$600. I had one of them come out to look and he gave me a quote for $350. I'm in So. Calif, with a detached garage. The breaker box is on the outside of the garage, and I'm having an outlet put in on the inside, direct opposite of the breaker box. Basically, no need to run conduit, just need to punch a hole in the wall. 50A breaker. Best bet is to have someone come out to take a look. Every situation is different. Hope that helps. Good luck.
 
The cost difference between running #8 and #6 wire is not that much. I would highly recommend to run the larger wire and put in a 50amp circuit. The cost difference will be (most likely) under $100 and you can upgrade to a higher amp charger in the future by just replacing the charger.
 

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