What should I buy?!? SUPER ROOKIE, Save me Obi Wan, you're my only hope

Hi All,
I am brand-new to all of this. I have never owned an electric vehicle, never owned a BMW, and never even posted In a forum.


Let me get right to it

OPTION 1
2016 BMW I3 Rex
I think its a TERA world,
11,356 Miles,
Price: $23,600

Pros: Price/Miles/Year
Cons: All black leather interior (I prefer the cream leather and white interior)
Was in a rear end fender bender, but nothing sis
I'd get it next week, delivered from some other state

Option 2
2016 Nissan Leaf SL
22k miles
Price: $18,ooo
http://www.automaxatlanta.com/detail-2016-nissan-leaf-4dr_hatchback_sl-used-17223847.html

Pros: Cheaper, bigger trunk, more practical, no gas or oil changes ever, I can have it today
Cons: Its not a BMW

Questions
The people trying to sell me the leaf we're mentioning how the maintenance cost in a BMW will be so much higher, is that true?
BMW Rex need oil changes and if so how often?
Are the both equal in reliability and durability?


Again, im such a rookie! ive done a fair amount of reasrch, but im so torn..help me Bro's!!!!!

Two words... Range Anxiety.
also
Three words... Not a BMW

Range Anxiety is not an issue with the i3 Rex.
Styling wise, (a very personal thing), the Nissan is an appliance. The i3 is unique. I personally, *love* the bold i3 styling.

Hold out for the i3. If you settle for the Nissan, every time you see an i3 on the road, you'll be second guessing yourself. If you wait for the i3, you won't even notice if a Leaf is in your vicinity.

Good luck! It's a great 1st world problem to have

YOU ARE A GENTLEMAN AND A SCHOLAR

any comments to maintenance? oil changes? etc?

Sorry, I can't comment on reliability. My 2015 Rex has performed flawlessly since I bought it.... last week

Maintenance wise, the Rex motor is a 2 cylinder moped unit. Nothing fancy there. Should be a typical 30 minute job. The hardest part will be getting the engine access cover off the top and any plastic aero stuff removed to get to the filter and drain plug. The filter is visible in this picture of the combined power unit.

I've had both and I think both are very nice cars (adding "for the price" for the Leaf ). Still have the i3 REX, had to sell the Leaf to make room for the Tesla Model 3. I would personally take the i3 before the Leaf any time, but the Leaf before an ICE car also. What bugs me most in the Leaf is the lack of regenerative braking (what they call "B" gear is nothing) and the car creeping forward while in gear, so your foot has to be on the break to hold the car. The pedal parking break does not help either. The i3 is also noticeably quicker to accelerate, although 0-30 mph the Leaf is almost the same.

For option 1: does it have Technology package (big screen), rear-view camera - these will be nice to have... and the premium audio too.
For option 2: not sure if Nissan still has any incentives on the outgoing 2017 models, but in April I got my brand new 2017 Leaf SV for $2k lower (when discounting the $7.5k tax incentive) than your 2016 quote. ( I also traded it in for more that it cost me earlier this month, so maybe demand is up). You might be able to get a better deal on a Leaf if you decide to go that route... maybe.

As for maintenance - the i3 should still have the original warranty and maintenance left, I believe they are both transferable but might be wrong. The REX scheduled oil change is once per year and can be easily DIY'd. I've had no issued with the Leaf for the 9 months I had it; the i3 had some (all covered by warranty and recalls) but it was 2014 year model.

We chose to buy an i3 BEV in 2014 because its 81-mile EPA range (~100 actual miles in our ideal EV situation) was sufficient for our needs, and we did not want the additional complexity, maintenance, weight, and likely worse reliability of the REx model. Apparently, the 107-mile EPA range of the Leaf that you are considering is sufficient for you. If the 2014-2016 i3 BEV's 81-mile EPA range range is insufficient for you, then you'd need to buy a 2017 i3 BEV with a 114-mile EPA range (harder to find used and more expensive) or a 2014-2016 i3 REx. There are many 2014-2016 i3's available, so I would not want to buy one that had had collision damage sight-unseen. There are not significant differences among 2014, 2015, and 2016 i3 models, so you could find a 2014 or 2015 i3 for less money although with less remaining warranty.

In 2014, our only other EV option was a Leaf. We already owned a 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV whose range was insufficient, and a Tesla Model S was way too large, heavy, and expensive. Unfortunately, Nissan chose passive cooling for its Leaf battery pack. This has lead to the rapid degradation of the battery packs in many Leafs, especially those in hot climates. Even my brother's Leaf in cool Seattle has lost range due to battery pack degradation. Also, the Leaf was larger and heavier than we desired.

So we traded in our i-MiEV for an i3 which has a battery management system that actively controls the temperature of its battery pack. i3 battery pack degradation has not been an issue. We prefer the compact size and low weight of the i3. We prefer the i3's rear-wheel drive and sophisticated suspension relative to the Leafs' front-wheel drive and basic suspension design.

However, BMW's tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair than Nissan's, in general, which will concern us after our warranty expires in November, 2018 (the battery pack warranty expires in 2022).

I advise learning a bit more about your choices and how they fit your needs before rushing into a purchase decision, if possible.

rtanov said:

I've had both and I think both are very nice cars (adding "for the price" for the Leaf ). Still have the i3 REX, had to sell the Leaf to make room for the Tesla Model 3. I would personally take the i3 before the Leaf any time, but the Leaf before an ICE car also. What bugs me most in the Leaf is the lack of regenerative braking (what they call "B" gear is nothing) and the car creeping forward while in gear, so your foot has to be on the break to hold the car. The pedal parking break does not help either. The i3 is also noticeably quicker to accelerate, although 0-30 mph the Leaf is almost the same.

For option 1: does it have Technology package (big screen), rear-view camera - these will be nice to have... and the premium audio too.
For option 2: not sure if Nissan still has any incentives on the outgoing 2017 models, but in April I got my brand new 2017 Leaf SV for $2k lower (when discounting the $7.5k tax incentive) than your 2016 quote. ( I also traded it in for more that it cost me earlier this month, so maybe demand is up). You might be able to get a better deal on a Leaf if you decide to go that route... maybe.

As for maintenance - the i3 should still have the original warranty and maintenance left, I believe they are both transferable but might be wrong. The REX scheduled oil change is once per year and can be easily DIY'd. I've had no issued with the Leaf for the 9 months I had it; the i3 had some (all covered by warranty and recalls) but it was 2014 year model.

Click to expand...

EXCELLENT insight.

Yes, LEAF has all those things.

graememwl said:

Sorry, I can't comment on reliability. My 2015 Rex has performed flawlessly since I bought it.... last week

Maintenance wise, the Rex motor is a 2 cylinder moped unit. Nothing fancy there. Should be a typical 30 minute job. The hardest part will be getting the engine access cover off the top and any plastic aero stuff removed to get to the filter and drain plug. The filter is visible in this picture of the combined power unit.

Click to expand...

Extremely helpful!

alohart said:

We chose to buy an i3 BEV in 2014 because its 81-mile EPA range (~100 actual miles in our ideal EV situation) was sufficient for our needs, and we did not want the additional complexity, maintenance, weight, and likely worse reliability of the REx model. Apparently, the 107-mile EPA range of the Leaf that you are considering is sufficient for you. If the 2014-2016 i3 BEV's 81-mile EPA range range is insufficient for you, then you'd need to buy a 2017 i3 BEV with a 114-mile EPA range (harder to find used and more expensive) or a 2014-2016 i3 REx. There are many 2014-2016 i3's available, so I would not want to buy one that had had collision damage sight-unseen. There are not significant differences among 2014, 2015, and 2016 i3 models, so you could find a 2014 or 2015 i3 for less money although with less remaining warranty.

In 2014, our only other EV option was a Leaf. We already owned a 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV whose range was insufficient, and a Tesla Model S was way too large, heavy, and expensive. Unfortunately, Nissan chose passive cooling for its Leaf battery pack. This has lead to the rapid degradation of the battery packs in many Leafs, especially those in hot climates. Even my brother's Leaf in cool Seattle has lost range due to battery pack degradation. Also, the Leaf was larger and heavier than we desired.

So we traded in our i-MiEV for an i3 which has a battery management system that actively controls the temperature of its battery pack. i3 battery pack degradation has not been an issue. We prefer the compact size and low weight of the i3. We prefer the i3's rear-wheel drive and sophisticated suspension relative to the Leafs' front-wheel drive and basic suspension design.

However, BMW's tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair than Nissan's, in general, which will concern us after our warranty expires in November, 2018 (the battery pack warranty expires in 2022).

I advise learning a bit more about your choices and how they fit your needs before rushing into a purchase decision, if possible.

Click to expand...

Thanks Art, this is a whole different take i did not consider. I drive on avg, 40 miles per day, 5 days a week, 49 weeks a year. That’s it.

I assumed (perhaps in error) if i was going to go BMW, I might as well go REX for range anxiety purposes .

My wife and I really liked the idea of no oil changes or gas for the life of the car, which is why I’m a bit intimated by the REX.

But your take on the added benefit AND liability of a REX gives me a lot to think about.

alohart said:

We chose to buy an i3 BEV in 2014 because its 81-mile EPA range (~100 actual miles in our ideal EV situation) was sufficient for our needs, and we did not want the additional complexity, maintenance, weight, and likely worse reliability of the REx model. Apparently, the 107-mile EPA range of the Leaf that you are considering is sufficient for you. If the 2014-2016 i3 BEV's 81-mile EPA range range is insufficient for you, then you'd need to buy a 2017 i3 BEV with a 114-mile EPA range (harder to find used and more expensive) or a 2014-2016 i3 REx. There are many 2014-2016 i3's available, so I would not want to buy one that had had collision damage sight-unseen. There are not significant differences among 2014, 2015, and 2016 i3 models, so you could find a 2014 or 2015 i3 for less money although with less remaining warranty.

In 2014, our only other EV option was a Leaf. We already owned a 2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV whose range was insufficient, and a Tesla Model S was way too large, heavy, and expensive. Unfortunately, Nissan chose passive cooling for its Leaf battery pack. This has lead to the rapid degradation of the battery packs in many Leafs, especially those in hot climates. Even my brother's Leaf in cool Seattle has lost range due to battery pack degradation. Also, the Leaf was larger and heavier than we desired.

So we traded in our i-MiEV for an i3 which has a battery management system that actively controls the temperature of its battery pack. i3 battery pack degradation has not been an issue. We prefer the compact size and low weight of the i3. We prefer the i3's rear-wheel drive and sophisticated suspension relative to the Leafs' front-wheel drive and basic suspension design.

However, BMW's tend to be less reliable and more expensive to repair than Nissan's, in general, which will concern us after our warranty expires in November, 2018 (the battery pack warranty expires in 2022).

I advise learning a bit more about your choices and how they fit your needs before rushing into a purchase decision, if possible.

Click to expand...

PLOT TWIST
I don’t plan on purchasing or installing a level two charger. Can I get away with trickle charging all night, and trickle charging for the 8+ hours I am at work for free in my spot? Of course I have access to level two chargers as needed for pay, that’s another reason I was considering the range extender version. But with a 40 mile commute each day, five days a week, can I get away with overnight trickle charge, and during work hours trickle charge?

I say trickle charging in your situation is perfectly fine. For my 26 mile drive -very little traffic, normal freeway speeds, I get 3.8miles/kwh. I'm trickle charging at work and it takes about 6 hours to recharge to 100%.
If you only drive 40 miles a day, you might be able to charge free at work and skip the home charge That would be nice...

The only issue I can think of by using the OUC (the 120vac unit that comes with the USA i3's) is that you won't be leaving with a full charge IF you decide to set a departure time...the act of warming the battery and conditioning the cabin will exceed the capacity of the OUC. Depending on where you live, that may or may not be an issue, but it is nice to get into the car when it is comfortable, and if you live where it snows and the car may be outside, preconditioning it makes it much easier to clean that snow and potentially ice off. You should still easily have enough to get to work (20-miles each way?) and do some running around if desired without issues, either winter or summer. Note, maximum range is only available when cold if you set a departure time which primarily warms the battery pack, but also allows you to condition the cabin. You CAN manually tell the car to condition that cabin without setting a departure time, but it won't warm the batteries. That process would probably allow you to retain the maximum charge, or closer than setting a departure time. If you have or want to use a low tariff recharging window, and the battery is low, it may not be able to achieve a full charge depending on how long that window is.

As an aside...make sure that the receptacle is in good shape and that there's nothing else connected to it if you want to have things go well. The plug should be TIGHT going in...if it's loose, the receptacle should be changed to a new, commercial grade one, as loose connections, either in it, or to it, can lead to overheating. It should work fine if it's in good shape, though.

IF there may be times when after you get home, you want to take the car out that evening, how far you can go may be a concern...then, a level 2 EVSE may be a good investment. Certainly, any larger car that has batteries would be able to take advantage of it as well. With the current i3's, in the USA, the car can handle about 32A maximum (actually, 7400W). Newer ones, may be able to accept more, and some cars available today can accept more. It will still work with smaller ones, but take correspondingly longer times to fully recharge. Since power = volts x amps, your 120vac unit at 12A or so is a far cry from the maximum the car can handle. If, for some reason, you let the car discharge to nearly empty, it could take nearly a day to recharge it with the OUC (especially if you have the newer one with the larger battery).

Another note on oil changes. I found some great pictures and more BEV vs Rex details. the main picture that interested me was this one.
It shows how easy it is to access the oil filter and drain plug. No panel removal required!


Those are great points brought up by @jadnashuanh about cold range. Living in the San Francisco Bay Area, we think it's cold when it drops below 60F :lol:

I live in Atlanta, so bitter cold is not really a thing and snow is rare.

our other "family car' is a Camry .

This is ALL OUTSTANDING INFORMATION , THANK YOU ALL

iM GETTING THR BMW!!!

I'll share pics when it arrives next week.

https://gph.is/1PGCljx

I have two cars, and I drive the i3 95% of the time because it's cheaper to run, is more maneuverable, easier to park, and it's fun! My other car only gets used when I need to travel further, carry a fifth person, or carry more 'stuff'. It's great on a trip, though. It's just that they don't occur all that often. In reality, it might be cheaper to rent one, but to get one similar, costs a LOT of money, if you can find one, and it's paid for...

Ej84 said:

. . .
OPTION 1
2016 BMW I3 Rex
I think its a TERA world,
11,356 Miles,
Price: $23,600
. . .

Click to expand...

Get the VIN and check the options.

Bob Wilson

Ej84 said:

I live in Atlanta, so bitter cold is not really a thing and snow is rare.

our other "family car' is a Camry .

This is ALL OUTSTANDING INFORMATION , THANK YOU ALL

iM GETTING THR BMW!!!

I'll share pics when it arrives next week.

https://gph.is/1PGCljx

Click to expand...

Good choice!