I3 with dead 12v and release cable frozen

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Wile

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
6
The car is a 2016 I3. Need to chance the 12 volt battery because it's dead and no electronics are working. However, I can not access the battery compartment because the steel release cable seems to be frozen not matter how hard I pull. At this time I would rather not use leverage force because I feel the cable may snaps. What other way is there to get to the battery compartment???
 
If you are where you can plug in the car to charge - do that for a few minutes , to see if the DC converter can charge up the 12v enough to work the electronics.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Have tried your suggestion, but the battery is a dead brick. Have searched the WWW using different key words and phrases, but have not found "my situation" anywhere that has been experienced by anyone else. Hoping for an answer from the community before being over charged by local BMW Dealership for their fix.
 
Found this - says it may take up to 30 minutes before charging starts, and not to open doors. There is an emergency circuit that will recharge the 12vdc battery from the EVSE connection...that can take awhile to build up enough charge in it to then start the normal charging routine, but if the 12vdc battery can accept a charge, it should work. It is not immediate, and it won't look like much of anything is happening until that 12vdc battery builds up, but if you have enough time, it can restore things to full operation if the battery can accept any charge at all.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10147617-9999.pdf

Saw a post once that there is supposed to be two terminal connections in the motor compartment you can attach a battery charger or jumper cables to, but I haven't been able to find any online info on this so far.
 
MKH said:
Saw a post once that there is supposed to be two terminal connections in the motor compartment you can attach a battery charger or jumper cables to, but I haven't been able to find any online info on this so far.

Here is a pic of the 12V Terminal connections in the motor compartment in the rear if you can get inside the car and remove the cover bolts with a 25 Torx screwdriver:
u9kR7Z5.jpg


The voltmeter's Red and Black leads are connected to the Positive and Negative Terminals. These are NOT High Voltage. HV is the ORANGE stuff.
You would have to pull off the RED cap that is covering the Positive Terminal, it is off in this pic.

As mentioned if you can access this, you may be able to apply 12v power to those terminals and it may be able to supply enough power to get the car to turn on 12v accessories which would mean you could press the button that releases the Frunk latch.
 
Good food for thought. The car is not mine but sitting at my house while owner ponders how he will approach this. So, the "connecting the charging unit" for over night sounds like something I could try without trying anything more he may not want me to. But will make him aware of your post. Really good info. More that I could find. Crazy situation, and as he says, "right now it's a 16k paperweight".
 
Had this happen right after we purchased our 2016 i3. Luckily it was covered under warranty and BMW came with a flatbed. Hope you can get that 12v to charge. Good luck.
 
Seems to me the lifespan of the 12V batteries are around 5 years? Maybe changing them out at 4 year intervals would be a good idea?
 
Update Sept30 Did leave the charge cable plugged into the house over night and the 12v never charged. The only lite on the charger cable that has stayed on is the power lite. I like the above suggestion of being able to possibly connect a charger to the terminals on the engine and the owner may try that. But does ANYONE have a suggestion on how he could access the frunk not using the electronic switches (because the 12v battery is dead) or using the frunk release cable (because the cable is frozen)? Or would the general opinion be that this would have to be a BMW Service fix??? Thanks for all replies all of you have offered.
 
Angle grinder with a cutoff wheel? Most hoods are black so a replacement shouldn't be too hard to find.

Seriously though: It seems like you're in BMW service territory if you don't want to try jumping it from the motor bay.
 
I was going to suggest a SawZall, but in a last ditch effort to be helpful I am going to use my "You might not know a lot about cars" Voice. Please bear with me.

#1: The Frunk Release cable only moves about 1/4" when you pull on it. That's normal. That is all it takes to "release" the hood in the First Stage.
It may feel "frozen" or "stuck" but pay attention to it. If it moves AT ALL, even 1/4" then the cable is working.

#2. When the Frunk is Released either by the Button, or the Emergency Cable, it only pops open about 1 inch. Because there is a second Release Lever to the Left of Center that must be pressed to allow the Frunk to be fully released to open. When the Frunk is initially released there is just barely enough room to get the fingers of your Left Hand under the lid to access that Secondary Release Lever. Then you can freely open the Frunk.

#3: If the Frunk is still not Released in the First Stage, can you try pulling on the cable while pushing DOWN a bit on the Frunk lid at the front center? See if that helps to release it?

I'm just wondering if:

A) The Frunk has actually been "released" but you were not aware of the secondary release lever?
B) Perhaps the Frunk was released but "someone" pushed it down slightly?
 
Update 2, Sept 30 late PM No offence taken with the "Do you know ..." voice. I understand all of you out there do not know the experience I do or do not have, so I accept all info any of you post with out "rolling my eyes" or saying "Seriously??? lol So suggestions of combo of pressing on hood and pulling cable done, to the extreme of owner snapping cable and hood not opening. (I going back to saying hood instead of frunk. Seriously! what millennial came up with "frunk"? IT'S A HOOD, for heavens sake). A valid suggestion of being aware of the car having the 2nd hood release and we are aware of it being there. But hood NEVER released for access to the 2nd "safety" latch. So "going in thru the hood" or some iteration of that is on the table now. Seriously! With a replace hood being bought. As a machine head myself, this situation with needing such extreme measures to get into the front compartment, totally blows my mind. A little back ground of "why not take it to BWM" option not being exercised. 1. Here in Atl, Ga area, the batteries are back ordered for at least a couple of weeks at all area BMW dealers and battery not ordered for YOUR car until they have a valid work order for you. (car is needed operational quickly as possible). 2. So there is a very good chance that a storage fees would be charged to you while they await YOUR battery coming in. 3. Towing charge for towing car to dealership, getting work order, then towing charge to have it taken back to his place awaiting the battery, then towing charge to get it back to dealership. Whole situation totally blows my mind. BUT love the love from you guys. Thanks for riding along with us on this crazy trip.
 
OK so owner has pulled so hard on the cable release that it snapped?
That's not good.

You seem to have access to the interior of the vehicle but at the same time also seem to rule out accessing the motor access cover in the rear to apply 12vdc power to the terminals there. That is most likely what BMW would do if you had it towed, so I'm not getting the reluctance to do that.
 
You might try any local East Penn distributors of the AUX 18L battery, to see if they have any in stock. East Penn makes the OEM battery and sells it under the Deka and Remy brands https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/contact/where-to-buy/

They can also be ordered online, but appear to be on backorder there. https://remybattery.com/start-stop-aux18l-auxiliary-battery.html

Never ever heard of a BMW dealer charging storage fees for a car waiting on parts. Might as well be sitting at the Dealer as in your driveway.

There is also an alternative battery setup for the i3 that BMW Service Departments used in the past, when the AUX 18L battery was on extended backorder - involves switching out the battery tray for a larger one, and also switching out the windshield washer tank with a different shaped one, to allow room for the slightly larger size battery.
 
Found this - watch to the middle of the video, and it shows how to open a closed tailgate from the inside of the car with a screwdriver.

if you can get it open, and manage to use the connection points in the engine compartment to get enough charge to open the frunk - and can't find an OEM AUX18L battery, some have used a similar size powersport (motorcycle/seadoo/skidoo, ATV) battery as a temporary fix. Will have to shave down/modify the battery posts to fit the slip on screw connectors from the OEM battery, but do-able.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tAyIzPhWBk
 
What a story... I would try to open the front doors (possibly with help of a locksmith. From there I'd attempt to access to the battery terminals under the trunk cover. If not possible, I'd hook up a 12V source to the fuse panel on the passenger side.
 
gt1 said:
What a story... I would try to open the front doors (possibly with help of a locksmith. From there I'd attempt to access to the battery terminals under the trunk cover. If not possible, I'd hook up a 12V source to the fuse panel on the passenger side.
Apparently, Wile has been able to open the driver's door to access the frunk release cable which isn't working. The driver's door can be unlocked and opened using the physical key in the fob, so there's no need for a locksmith.

Once inside, Wile could lift the cargo floor carpet to access the screws that attach the cargo floor access panel. With the access panel removed, the 12 V terminals are accessible. Connecting a 12 V battery or battery charger to these terminals should provide enough 12 V power to unlock the frunk electrically.
 
Ha, I forgot about the obvious- the plastic key! Anyway, after the doors are open, applying 12V to "jump" the car isn't that difficult.
 
Gentlemen, Thank you all for interest and suggestions concerning the drama I have shared with you on this I3 issue. I will try to briefly list the steps followed that enabled the owner to access the battery compartment. Hint hint, it was a suggestion from one of you.

But first: IF YOU OWN A I3, RIGHT NOW IF NOT SOONER, GO CHECK THE MANUAL HOOD RELEASE CABLE ON YOUR I3 TO KNOW FOR CERTAIN IT IS WORKING AND NOT FROZEN. The owner had this great suggestion for you all.

So, the solution for the owner was to access the engine area in the back compartment and apply 12 volts to the terminals on the engine. This allowed him to quickly pop the hood electronically using the hood open button. MKH, you are THE man.
So the next drama for the owner is having to deal with one of the screws being stripped that holds the battery bracket in place. The hits just keep on coming for him.
Again, thanks all. I'm out.
 
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