Papageno wrote:I recently had a 240V charging station installed, but I cannot switch the charging level in my 2014 I3 from 120V to 240V. I followed the instructions but still no go. Did anyone encounter the same problem?
If your car still charges using the one that came with it, then the problem is probably in the new charger. We can do couple of simple tests to find out IF you have a volt-ohm meter. If you don't, Harbor Freight sells cheap but good enough ones for ~$5 and Walmart is close behind.
Looking head-on at the J1772 plug, you see five pins:
- top two pins - these are the power lines that have NO power until the charger and car 'negotiate'. We won't be testing these lines.
- bottom pin - the ground is the reference we will use for measuring the control lines, presence and pilot.
- left pin - this is the 'presence' line that is a resistor operated by the latch. We will measure the resistance between ground and the 'presence' pin to make sure the resistor and the switch operated latch work.
- right pin - the pilot signal should have +12V relative to the ground. A -12V means the charger has a problem and won't work. Now to do more pilot signal testing requires having a resistor network between the pilot line and the ground. We won't do that because you would need test equipment more complex than a volt-ohm meter. Also, this would risk enabling the two power pins and that would be too exciting.
Perhaps you might share some photos of the charger, its power connection, and what happens to the lights around the charging port when it is plugged-in. Use the charger that came with the car to see the proper light sequence.