Recommended Wax?

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I use Wolfgang Rinse-less wash (using the two-bucket wash method), then treat the roof and hood with a UV blocking detailing spray.

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-Concours-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse/dp/B017KSJ5ZK

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For me, one great benefit of the i3's design is that the outer panels are plastic, so can't rust...

I give it an occasional wash, but really do so much less than my previous steel bodied cars required.

However, I do like to keep its wonderful interior clean, and apply BMW's leather care protection every so often.

Chris
 
I give it an occasional wash, but really do so much less than my previous steel bodied cars required.

Me too - but with reports of the clear-coat de-laminating from the carbon fiber roof - and BMW not covering it under warranty - I use some preventative maintenance on that, ie, UV blocking spray
 
While the panels are plastic, they still are painted, either with a pigment or clearcoat. A good wax that can protect the paint is called for to maintain it looking good.
 
Are you sure that the body panels are actually painted? I always assumed that they were molded in the different colors

I have a small stone nick or two and they show black plastic under the paint.
 
MKH said:
I give it an occasional wash, but really do so much less than my previous steel bodied cars required.

Me too - but with reports of the clear-coat de-laminating from the carbon fiber roof - and BMW not covering it under warranty - I use some preventative maintenance on that, ie, UV blocking spray

That's a good ploy, though won't be relevant to my i3 as it's got the sunroof. But I'll watch its aluminium roof panel for any sign of paint damage, it's now nearly 3 years old.

Chris
 
The plastic body panels are painted and the roof is clear-coated so any quality automotive sealer will work. Polymer sealants last longer than natural waxes like carnuba. Detailing buffs will apply a sealant, wait a week and add a coat of wax (Collonite Insulation wax is good) to add that warm glow only waxes provide.
My 3 year old CPO was well-maintained but the lessee apparently felt the rood didn’t need to be waxed. On dull finishes it is best to use polish before waxing. Start mild and work your way up carefully. The mildest one I use, Meguiar’s Hi Tech Swirl Remover, did the trick and I finished with Wolfgang sealant.
 
The car may very well be carbon fibre and plastic, but it's still painted, (with clear coat on the roof) and that paint is subject to the same contaminants as steel or aluminium counterparts, brake dust, bird lime, road salt.

I've bought an array of products over the years but haven't ventured into ceramic coatings.

If you're doing it properly, then simply applying wax just seals in scratches and fine swirls. I wash the car and degrease with traffic film remover (TFR). Poorboys products are excellent such as their bug squash too.

The car is then clayed to remove tar spots for a silky smooth finish. You can use a damp microfibre and a dab of petrol for engrained areas. Quick rinse.

For light swirls, then I'm using a rotary mop and foam pad, I've used Menzerna 203S to cut the paint. It's a light cut, possibly 4/10 strength. Wipe off panels with methylated spirit. Absolute mirror finish. I've used these things for years so you need to be careful. It's not about using lots of product and importantly at corners or edges you can burn the paint if speed wrong.

To protect, Collinite 476. Apply with a damp microfibre cloth and let it haze, then remove with a dry microfibre. No dust and a pleasure to use and will probably offer 6-9 months protection.

Interior, then leather gets treatment from Colourlock.
 
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