How do you have a 2016 94aH?Busfolder wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 5:41 pmMost of my charging (2016 94Ah REX) over the 26 months I've had my i3 has been done with 50kW rapids, as I mainly use the car for long trips (rarely under 100 miles...)
I've not noticed any significant loss of capacity, but if this happens I want it to do so before the battery's warranty expires (so BMW picks up the tab...)
So I'm not planning to change this strategy, as eventually I want to replace the original battery with a higher capacity unit (120Ah+?)
[How do you have a 2016 94aH? /quote]
I bought it used (at 8300 miles in its first year) in late December 2017, so I guess it was an early UK 94Ah car.
Just passed 28000 enjoyable and economical miles (by careful choice of public chargers- UK pricing varies wildly!)
Have recently installed the BMW Connected app, and much appreciating the remote preconditioning capability!
Apparently in Europe, the model year of a car is the year in which it was built. If an i3 built in late 2016 were classified as a 2017 model in the U.S. (e.g., a 94 Ah i3), it would be a 2016 model in Europe.
Yes, most of these things aren't good for the battery and we should hope the battery management system does a good job. That said, what would be the best practices? Would be good to know the order in which these things are best/worse for the car. I'm thinking discharge to 0 is very bad and charging frequency based on cell phones.vreihen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 05, 2020 10:07 amDepending on who you ask...
Fast charging (DC or 32A Level2)
Discharging to 0%
Charging to 100%
Charging too frequently
High number of discharge cycles
Charging when hot
Charging when cold
Looking at your car in the wrong way
My $0.02 is to let the battery management system do the worrying and just enjoy your car, trusting that the BMW engineers have picked the best set of tradeoffs to ensure a long and productive vehicle life.....
It's not possible to drive the i3 to zero. It holds a substantial reserve. Zero indicated is virtual. Same at 100%.