DUnit's Project i3 with HRE wheels

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DUnit

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2017
Messages
29
Location
Bay Area, CA
Let the modding begin...

Step 1) Buy wheels... Check.
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Step 2) Buy springs. Check.
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Step 3) Buy lip kit... Check.
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Step 4) Buy i3... Check.
Step 5) Code car. Check.
Step 6) Buy level 2 charger. Check. Got the ClipperCreek HCS-50P on sale.
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Step 7) Install 240v 50amp circuit in the garage. Check. I ended spending less than $30 at Home Depot for a Nema 14-50 receptacle, cover plate, and 50 amp breaker. :D
uc
 
I ended up detailing my car on Saturday (wash, iron x, clay, meguiars m105, meguiars m205, and cquartz) and installing H&R springs today on Sunday. The spring install was probably the easiest bimmer I've ever lowered but the rears is a 2 man job. Took us about 3 hours from start to finish without rushing.

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Got the new tires and wheels installed last night at America's Tires. My friend did a quick photoshoot of the car this morning using his iphone X in the parking lot. Turned out pretty well for a phone camera... LOL.

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Looks good!

Did you compare the weight of the wheel and tyre set compared to the original set?

Standard i3 wheels are forged and lighter than cast wheels.
 
wiredmeyer said:
Very nice. Did you want to sell the old wheels?

Thanks! I am going to list them locally for $1,400 once I have time. They will include tires but no TPMS. From my experience, desirable i3 OE wheels rarely go on sale and can be a difficult to find.


I33t said:
Looks good!

Did you compare the weight of the wheel and tyre set compared to the original set?

Standard i3 wheels are forged and lighter than cast wheels.

Nope but the HRE wheels are 3 piece forged and same size has the stock 20" ones. I didn't buy them for performance - I bought them strictly for looks.

Anyways, here's my alignment specs after lowering. According to the shop, there was no front camber adjustment but -1.0 and -1.2 seem pretty reasonable. Unfortunately for the rear, the best they could do was -1.8.

uc
 
Here's my current subwoofer project to add to the HK system. The box will be located on the driver's side wedged in the trunk. I chose the shallow subwoofer to reduce the depth as much as possible but big enough for the enclosure to be ported and tuned for 32Hz. Sub will be fed with 600W at 2 ohm by an efficient class D amp. Stay tuned.

uc


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alohart said:
Nice looking wheels but I would hate the time and effort required to clean all of the many small surfaces.

You should try coating your wheels in Cquartz. Once you do that, all you have to do is power rinse the wheels to get them clean. :lol:
 
Hard wired my Thinkware f100 dash cam to the fuse panel to utilize the parking mode feature. The dash cam basically records all the time, but when it senses the battery is running low, it will shut itself off after parking for a long period of time. I configured the dash cam to shut off when the battery reaches 12.2 volts.

3 wires
yellow - constant 12v to fuse #62 (used a standard add-a-fuse with 5 amp)
red - ACC wire to fuse #51 (used a mini-add-a-fuse with 5 amp)
black - ground wire to any exposed metal portion near fuse box

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I got the 2 channel system and was able to tuck all the wires cleanly and out of site.
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Wow, impressive build so far. I was surprised you found rims that fit the size of the i3 tires. Odd that HRE even makes it. Looks good. Keep up the work. I'll be following you.
 
Not sure why someone would want to put the expensive battery pack closer to the ground by lowering the vehicle. Looks are one thing...but hey, I don't have to deal with it if he hits some road debris.
 
Amazing build!

I got many ideas for my 2018 i3s from this thread. Those wheels are :cool:

So happy that you listed out the fuse panel hardwire fuses for dash cam! I have one ready to install and wasn't sure what to hook in to.
 
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