Does anyone own the AeroVironment turbocord?

[cmj912]

It seems like a worthwhile option particularly for people who are renting. It is apparently dual voltage.

I do however have some questions.

If the electrician installs on "outdoor dryer outlet" (NEMA 6-20p?) will this work?

 

[TonyWilliams]

Our JESLA premium portable charging cable is "all voltage", from 100 volts to 264 volts. In addition, it will automatically adjust amperage, depending on which interchangeable plug is used. We also offer adaptors for odd combinations (for example, we offer an adaptor to plug into an L6-20 outlet, if that's what you want to use).

http://shop.quickchargepower.com/Service-Build-a-custom-adapter-Adapter.htm

Certainly, I would recommend a 50 amp circuit, if possible, with a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Then, you can charge your BMW at its maximum rate of 30 amps, and even other future cars at 40 amps, like a future Tesla Model 3.

You don't have to program or know anything. Just Plug-N-Charge(TM).

http://shop.quickchargepower.com/JESLA-is-THE-40-amp-J1772-portable-charging-solution-JESLA.htm

JELSA ships with NEMA 14-50 and NEMA 5-15 plugs, a padlock, plus a carrying bag. Additionally, you may want to buy the correct plug for your dryer (handy for visiting friends or relatives at their house) or for motel air conditioners:

...........................................VOLTS / AMPS.....kW
NEMA 5-15* ......Standard Outlet.. 120 V / 12 A...... 1.4 kW
NEMA 6-15 .......Air Conditioners.. 240 V / 12 A ..... 2.8kW
NEMA 5-20 ...... Motel A/C .......... 120 V / 16 A....... 1.9 kW
NEMA 10-30......Older Dryers........ 240 V / 24 A...... 5.8 kW
NEMA 14-50*.....RV Parks ........... 240 V / 40 A...... 9.6 kW

*included plugs

JESLA 40 amp (9.6kW) J1772 / Type 1 premium portable charging cable works at up to full power on every known J1772 equipped vehicle in the world.

Here's a nice article, written by one of our LEAF customers:

http://www.wind-works.org/cms/index.php?id=84&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=3885&cHash=30950535275759c616aecc4c0efca8ad

 

[cmj912]

Thanks, but I think of all of them the JR is probably what I would want to go with.
Portability is one thing, but I'm looking for an option that does not require permanent installation of anything other than possibly a new electric receptacle.
I'm not sure, in any case, that my electric service (at 100AMP) would even support one of these things.

 

[jadnashuanh]

My condo has a 100A panel, and I installed a 40A circuit so I could charge at the i3's maximum rate (30-32A, depending on the input voltage - mine happens to normally be about 246, so my 30A unit can max the i3 out). It really depends on what you have and use. I have a gas dryer, heat, and stove. My major big electrical load is the central a/c. Your results may differ.

 

[alohart]

I'm not sure, in any case, that my electric service (at 100AMP) would even support one of these things.

Our apartment also has a 100 amp panel. We installed a charging circuit with wiring sufficient for a 40 amp circuit, but we installed a 20 amp breaker so that an inexpensive 20 amp on-off switch and outlet could be installed. We don't have easy access to our charging circuit breaker, so I wanted to be able to shut off the charging circuit, if need be. Our 40 amp JuiceBox EVSE's maximum current is set to 16 amps so that the charging circuit's breaker won't trip.

Even at only 208 volts, 16 amps is sufficient to fully charge an empty i3 battery pack in about 8 hours. This works for our needs and usually doesn't result in the battery pack cooling system activating in warm weather which reduces the amount of expensive electricity needed to charge our battery pack. Should our situation change such that we need to charge faster, we could upgrade our charging circuit to be able to charge at 30 amps at minimal cost.

The appliances in our all-electric apartment are all high-efficiency appliances, so we aren't concerned about overloading our electric panel and tripping the master circuit breaker even if we charged at 30 amps.

If you are worried about overloading your 100 amp electric panel, you could charge at a lower current and/or replace inefficient electric appliances with Energy Star models.

 

[cmj912]

I'm not sure, in any case, that my electric service (at 100AMP) would even support one of these things.

Our apartment also has a 100 amp panel. We installed a charging circuit with wiring sufficient for a 40 amp circuit, but we installed a 20 amp breaker so that an inexpensive 20 amp on-off switch and outlet could be installed. We don't have easy access to our charging circuit breaker, so I wanted to be able to shut off the charging circuit, if need be. Our 40 amp JuiceBox EVSE's maximum current is set to 16 amps so that the charging circuit's breaker won't trip.

Even at only 208 volts, 16 amps is sufficient to fully charge an empty i3 battery pack in about 8 hours. This works for our needs and usually doesn't result in the battery pack cooling system activating in warm weather which reduces the amount of expensive electricity needed to charge our battery pack. Should our situation change such that we need to charge faster, we could upgrade our charging circuit to be able to charge at 30 amps at minimal cost.

The appliances in our all-electric apartment are all high-efficiency appliances, so we aren't concerned about overloading our electric panel and tripping the master circuit breaker even if we charged at 30 amps.

If you are worried about overloading your 100 amp electric panel, you could charge at a lower current and/or replace inefficient electric appliances with Energy Star models.

I have natural gas heat, stove, dryer and hot water. The only large electrical appliance is the Fridge and, in the summer, a window air conditioner. The place really isn't all that large but the wiring isn't completely new. The new outdoor outlet was wired to its own circuit, but it is still 110 on a 15amp breaker. The landlord said he would be open to changing it (since it needs to be moved closer to the parking area anyway) but I'm just looking to minimize paying for installation of things permanent to the house other than an outlet.

 

[jadnashuanh]

The OUC that comes with the car provides a max of 12A, so a 15A circuit will work, but I'd consider just making it a 20A circuit and put a 20A receptacle on it which will accept both the common 15A plug (straight pins) and a 20A one (one with one plug perpendicular to the other). This way, you could go to a 16A unit, or, replace the circuit breaker and make it a level 2 and put a different receptacle on it easily should you want to more than double the charging rate.