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Probably won’t be sufficient to stop the signal getting out. I’d keep it shut to be 100% safe. No doubts then. Free the catch off so it just flaps shut without being held in position. Easy to open then.

Concern I’d have is there are plenty of examples in reviews of those pouches not working. Double bagging has been suggested but that’s a real faff. The tin works and can hold more than one set of keys and bunches of keys.

Any key that doesn't need pressing to access the car is at risk. The solution is simple. 1. Buy tin of cookies (in an actual metal tin). 2. Eat said cookies! 3. Brush out crumbs from tin and place it where you normally keep your keys 4. Place keys (including spare) in tin 5. Keep lid...

I’m no expert but my understanding was very much the same which is why I questioned the original assessment of my pads. I think there are two possible issues at play. Firstly, your car can’t regenerate when the battery is close to full as there’s nowhere for the energy to be stored. This...

Just to follow up on this old thread, I had the car in for the wheel check (see my other thread) and they did the usual courtesy safety and maintenance checks. Brake pads reported with 7mm (F) and 8mm (R) depth remaining after 28k miles so the original reading I had was plain wrong I am...

I'll follow up with a photo as promised but to confirm BMW have agreed two new rear wheels to be fitted on Tuesday under warranty

I paid around £33k for my i3 with options included. I was waiting eagerly for the iPace specs and data. They phoned me at launch and said "it starts at £63k". I said, "good luck with that" and put the phone down! :shock: Whilst I could in no way be described as poor, for many people...

My one front looks like that but the rears look like the surface coating has been penetrated and there’s a sort of cloudy white corrosion spreading from the inside outwards. Can’t put a photo up currently but will do soon.

Anyone noticed a problem with corrosion on the i3 wheels? I seem to have a particular problem around the centre hub on both my back wheels as though something is causing it in this location.

You can set this in the car so can’t see why remote services are relevant there. The only issue would seem to be changing the settings remotely if you needed to.

Or as an alternative, login to the connected drive website and you can set it up using the remote cockpit section of that. I think as Jim says, you can’t enable a timer until you have selected one or more days of the week and a time. I don’t think this part of the software is particularly...

Ditto that, precondition for departure refers to battery and cabin and needs a departure time set to enable it.

The app status was fine and updating. It was the rear door issue that was causing it. Obviously, I wouldn’t and don’t drive the car with the dashboard error showing but I was surprised that it reported as the doors not being locked. The car locks fine in this condition and how would you...

Just a glitch I think but I left the car today and locked it. Happened to be looking at the app later and saw that the doors were showing as unlocked. So I sent a lock command to the car. Successful but no change in status. Sent it again, again successful but no change in status. Went out to...

You can get your spec by putting the last 7 digits of you VIN number into this website and pressing DECODE! https://www.bmwvin.com I think from memory that the lighting options were associated with one of the interior packages but can't be sure of that. If you've got them, they should come on...

Bearing in mind that it’s not just cabin heating and battery charging. If you set a departure time for preconditioning and the battery temp is below 10c, the car will also try to raise the battery temp to 10c. All three loads are surely beyond the capacity of an L1 hence the low SoC levels.

Don’t think so as on mine it’s off and on constantly. Plus my Rex is full so unlikely to take much work to do it. Without knowing the method behind this though, it’s difficult to say.

I’ve recently noticed this too. The symptom is very similar to your description but if I keep the stereo off, I notice it at other times too. A definite relay switch from around the glovebox area switching something that makes a kind of quiet distant whirring sound from somewhere in the rear...

There’s a clear plastic one with lid that fits perfectly, I’ve got one to house the contents of my frunk that I want to keep dry. There’s also room for the Type 2 alongside it.

I understood there was a key reason for it not being weatherproof. It’s the storage location for the Type 2 cable which is inevitably stowed wet on occasions. Weatherproof means a wet cable stowed in it would render the contents permanently damp. Try stowing your wet Type 2 in the boot on a...