Dashcam hardwiring and fuses not matching the installation guide

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Sep 13, 2023

I’m getting soon a 2020 i3 and I am planning to install in it the hardwired dash cam I had in my previous car.
I found online the document used by BMW for retrofitting the BMW Advanced Car Eye which uses the same kind of wiring as I want to connect it as if it was original, and it indicates to install connectors and 5A fuses in F48 and F59 but I downloaded the fusebox card with the VIN from BMW's site and the 48 is already in use for the OBD with a 15A fuse, the 59 is empty as it should.
I guess the installation guide I found is not the right one for 2020 cars.
Does somebody know which fuse should be used to make this installation or where could I get the right installation guide?

I guess you must be re-using a dashcam from a previous BMW then? It's fairly unusual for an aftermarket dashcam to have two 12V supplies, so it seems reasonable to assume that it's BMW-specific.

In reality it doesn't matter which unallocated fuse space you use, as long as it's in the same "block" - so an adjacent one in the same vertical row will use the same switched (or unswitched) supply.

I should add that in my 2021 car, neither of those fuse allocations is in use, so I guess it seems likely that the car you intend to buy is a REX model rather than a pure BEV?

[Edit - just checked a 2019 REX fuse allocation and it doesn't have a fuse in F48 either, so I can't think of an explanation - I guess it must be used for an option that neither my car nor the other example have.]
Thanks for the reply.
The dashcam is a cheap one from ddpai that has a hardwiring kit with a box with 3 wires (+, acc+,ground) it was installed in our E39 previously.
The i3 is a 07/2020 build 120Ah full electric with all options excepted Park Assist and Harman Kardon audio, which may explain why these fuses are used.
Also the car will be imported from the German market (I'm in France) which may be the reason why this fusebox is weird, our E39 was also from the german market, the BMW dealer tried to find a fusebox plan in French, nothing was matching.

The only empty space in the column of 4x fuses is the 46.
Ah, OK. F46 is one of a column of 6 fuse spaces. It should be Ok to use as the always-on 12V supply.

Note that F59 is a Terminal 15N supply, so it will only be "on" when the car is in drive-ready mode. IMO it's better to use a Terminal 30B supply, as this will stay on for the whole of the time that the car is powered-up (even if not in drive-ready mode), and for at least 10 mins after the car is switched off (so for example it should cover most "road rage" incidents which can happen after you leave the car).

Also be aware that F46 is a mini fuse, while F59 is a micro fuse, so you will need the appropriate terminal type for each, if you intend to install fuses in unused fuse slots.
Thanks for the explanation about the fuses.

Btw, in the ETK it indicates 4 connectors whereas there's only 3 wires to connect.
1x 61138353763 eyelet
2x 61139232673 MCP 2.8
1x 61139316221
Even in the installation PDF it only speaks about 3 wires to connect, is there any explanation why it asks for 2x the same connector ?

Sorry - no idea. I can't find an illustration of what the "bushing contact" looks like, so I don't know what it is.
I installed a BlackVue dashcam. and i hardwired the camera in the fusebox. The constant 12V i connected to fuse 42. the remote receiver of the (constant powered) and the switched 12V to fuse 65 of the utility outlet.
Camera is working fine even in parking mode. So the 12V system is constantly charged.
Thanks for the info.
I'm still waiting the car so I haven't checked it.
Is it easy to install the connectors in the fusebox ?
Does it require a lot of disassembly ?
I have used these on both i3S and F20 there plenty verions on Ali Express and the like. Works perfectly. You dont need auto dimming mirror I have used the rain sensor on the F20

After all that time I started to install the dashcam in my car, the fuse number indicated in the BMW guide are finally empty
but I'm facing a little problem how to install the connectors in the fusebox.
It seems there's blue tabs that lock the connectors in place, but I'm not sure which ones needs to be pulled to unlock the rails for fuses F4x and F5x rows as the way this is installed it's not easy to reach the connectors.
Is it necessary to remove the additional rectangular fuse holder that is clipped on the top corner above the F4x row?
If there's any advice for this part of the work, I'll appreciate it.

Also if this info can help someone:
61139232673 MCP 2.8 -> connector for micro fuse
61139316221 -> connector for mini fuse
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Yes, you can unclip the extra fuse panel if it helps, but I removed the single bolt (if I remember correctly) to free the fuse panel up completely - I think you can flip it over, or tilt it in a way that allows you to access the reverse easily. For safety it would (obviously) be best to disconnect the 12V and HV battery while doing this - I didn't because I'm a bit stupid like that, but I got away with it.

You actually don't have to pull the blue locking rails all the way out - you just have to pull it one step out and it should free up each of the fuse slots. And when you view the panel from behind it becomes obvious which rail you need to pull for a specific fuse.
I was asking because I did as you do without unplugging the battery and unclipping the fuse board from the cover and it seemed to me it was necessary to remove the rectangular fuse holder to move the blue rail for the F4x fuse but maybe I didn't see wel how this blue rail is installed.
I slightly unclipped the rectangular fuse holder and immediately the car displayed a message about the powertrain being desactivated go to dealer... the clips holding that rectangular fuse older in the corne seems to hide a connector.
I hope the blue rail can be moved without removing that rectangular fuse holder that generates errors.
I finally installed it, your advices helped me to know I was on the right way.
The F4x fuse needed to remove the rectangular fuse holder to reach the blue rail that is hidden behind it, but this time I didn't have any errors. I guess the previous time the car wasn't "sleeping" enough to ignore this was disconnected.