Simple home EVSE question

[Jeffj]

I've purchased an EVLink EVSE that was on sale via HomeDepot.com Its a "hardwire" unit. I have an unused dryer circuit that I'm going to tap into and run into my garage that I plan to use for the EVSE. I'm also planning to pigtail the EVSE so I can plug it in, the rationale being that if/when I move, I simply unplug it and take it with me, but I can still advertise the house as being wired for EV charging.

So, if I pigtail the EVSE, what type of pigtail/plug should I be looking to install in the garage? The array of choices is a bit bewildering. I'm not looking to future proof or have the be-all, end all. I just want to terminate the 220 VAC circuit in a box with an outlet and then put a pigtail on the EVSE that I can plug into the outlet.

From what I can tell, most any 220 VAC plug/outlet would work, but I'm looking for advantages/disadvantages of the various formats (e.g. NEMA 14-50 vs. a dryer plug vs. a locking plug)

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[jelloslug]

Anything that can handle the current. A dryer plug (NEMA 14-30) or the heavier duty NEMA 14-50 would be versatile and it's also common to have a 6-50 plug also since just about all level 2 EVSE units don't use a ground. I have a 6-50 plug on my 25 amp unit and I also have an extension cord/adapter to from from 6-50 to 14-30.

 

[Blue20]

Is this what you got? ... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Schneider-Electric-EVlink-30-Amp-Generation-2-5-Enhanced-Model-Indoor-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station-EV230WS/203670265?MERCH=RV-_-RV_nav_plp_rr-1-_-NA-_-203670265-_-N

I am not an electrician. According to the specification, this EVSE can deliver 30 amp output, that mean the unit will draw MORE than 30 amp. Also it is a continuous load. Dryer will go on and off, not continuous 30A load.

I would suggest you get someone to check out what do you have in your dryer circuit, and whether it can support your unit.

 

[Jeffj]

I took a look at the circuits last night and decided that it will be better to just run a new 40A circuit to the garage. Piggybacking on the unused dryer circuit doesn't buy me much. In either case, I'll have to run some conduit on the exterior of the house to get the circuit to the attic and then to the garage. The box has space for another complete circuit, so that seems the best course.

And yes, I'm going to have an electrician do the work. I just like to understand all that is happening.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[ultraturtle]

You are 100% on track by running a new 40A circuit to your garage.

You will not be able to tap off of your dryer line to install this particular EVSE and comply with the NEC.

Hardwired, you will need this 40 amp circuit with a dedicated circuit breaker.

If you wish to use a plug, you would need the added expense of a 50 amp circuit as well as a pigtail plug and receptacle.

The 30 amp dryer circuit could only support an EVSE of 24 amps or less. Unless you want to build your own (not difficult by the way), your choices are currently limited to 16 amp EVSEs. Not a bad way to go, by the way, as you could fully charge an i3 from empty overnight (about 8 hours).

 

[Boatguy]

All of the plugs are inherently poorer than hard wired. Twist locks are particularly poor. Just yesterday a friend called in a panic when the 30a twist lock on his boat failed.

If you're going to use this regularly, hard wire your EVSE.

 

[jadnashuanh]

The reason you need a 50A circuit for a 30A EVSE is that, at least in the USA, there are no 40A plugs, and US code requires a continuous load to be no more than 80% of the wiring and breaker...so, if you hardwire it, a 40A circuit is fine, but if you use a plug, it has to support the plug's max, and in this case, that's 50A.