801252: Replacing BMW i3 air conditioning compressor

[eXodus]

Anyways, he said that there is a solenoid inside of the compressor that burns out and renders the unit inoperable. With that said, it's unlikely that there will be bits of metal in the system. A relief.

I've replaced that solenoid valve on a few other cars (Volvo, Prius) at the compressors - only the valve - let the compressor installed.

You can get the valve from ebay from gray sources.

Maybe that's an cheap option for the i3 issue? No idea if you can get to the part.

 

[TARDISi3]

Anyways, he said that there is a solenoid inside of the compressor that burns out and renders the unit inoperable. With that said, it's unlikely that there will be bits of metal in the system. A relief.

I've replaced that solenoid valve on a few other cars (Volvo, Prius) at the compressors - only the valve - let the compressor installed.

You can get the valve from ebay from gray sources.

Maybe that's an cheap option for the i3 issue? No idea if you can get to the part.

The solenoid is not visible from the outside on the i3 compressor. I have to take apart the old one to get to know her from the inside.

Who knows, may not even have a solenoid. I'm thinking it's just the windings for the motor in there.

 

[TARDISi3]

I have an update for you. On Friday I had the R1234YF recovered at my friend's shop. Strangely enough, only 785 grams of gas came out.

Yesterday, Saturday, I swapped out the compressors. "Out with the old, and in with the new!" - Chrisfix. Headed back to my friend's shop to have the system vacuumed, tested with no leaks. and regassed. Replaced with the 785g of R1234YF.

When I first turned the ac on, there was no cooling whatsoever. I was wondering if there was a code that needed to have been reset. I turned the car off, then when I turned it on, I heard the compressor and the condenser fan in the front going. Cold air started to come from the vents. "Great success! High five" - Borat.

Drove it today, and it's still running cold. if I put it at the lowest temperature, I could store milk in the car at that temperature and it not spoil...brrrr!!!

Is there any danger to the air conditioning system with there being only 785g of refrigerant in there versus the requisite 970g?

 

[Ninja]

So glad you were able to repair it yourself!
I believe I have the same problem, altho I’ve not seen that error code on mine (yet).
The code I’ve seen is
801219
eKMV: Power reduction due to overtemperature converter

Mine is a 2014 i3 Rex in the USA, and uses R134a refrigerant.
I’ve hooked up a gauge manifold today and I see the low pressure side is about the same as the high pressure side when I turn on the AC.

I have a couple questions, if you’re able to answer:


1. Did you replace any other parts in the process like orifice tubes or expansion valves?
2. How did you flush the system?
3. Any general tips or suggestions for someone about to attempt the same DIY repair?

EDIT - found a how-to video showing the replacement of the compressor from underneath the car:
https://youtu.be/-NQ0eYpyFnQ?si=XnELQUy-OmG0hAqQ

Thanks for sharing your experience!

 

[ronbot]

Next best place is after the condenser, to protect the expansion valves. The position is not super critical, since it's a loop. Just that it gets trapped eventually. Otherwise the stuff makes round after round after round through the compressor and damages it every time a bit more.

I was just looking around and have not found a R1234yf Filter... yet... don't know
In older style A/C system - just google for "r134a filter" yeah don't use a r134a part.

It's specifically placed before the expansion valves because that's the tiny orifice that can get plugged by the debris...