First impressions

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danix

Active member
Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Messages
26
Location
SF Bay Area
I own a 2014 Volt which I've put almost 10k miles on in the last six months. I have a somewhat rare opportunity to be able to sell the car for about what I paid, so I'm looking at what else is out there.

As an ex 2011 335d (and 88 E30) owner, the i3 with Rex is the natural choice. I need rex because I have a 52 miles commute to work, and the same back. I can charge at work but we have lots of EVs, so there are times where I may not be able to get a full charge. Plus, I hate the idea of being stuck.

I picked up a REX from a dealer today for an extended test drive. First impressions:

Pros:
  • EV range is better than the Volt
  • much more power than Volt, faster off the line
  • power seems constant up to max speed, while on Volt it tapers off a lot around 60mph
  • fit and finish is better than the Volt
  • rear visibility is better than the Volt
  • turning radius is terrific
  • brakes are better than the Volt

Cons:
  • handling is super choppy due to the short wheelbase, similar to the 500e
  • rear windows don't open, no way to counteract the buffeting when front windows are open
  • trunk is tiny
  • turning is quick but almost too quick, the car seems to float when turning (hard to explain)
  • controls are weird but respond better than the Volts which have major lag. I have to hit the power button twice to turn off the car?

First 15 minutes were "wow, not sure if I like this or hate it." Next 2 hours, "pretty sure I hate it". Rest of the day, I see the pros but still don't think I could own one.

I will continue testing but I have to say that the Volt does almost everything better except as noted above, for $20k less. Purchase seems like a no go for sure, and even if it leased for the same as the Volt, I'm not sure I would pick it.
 
danix said:
I need rex because I have a 52 miles commute to work, and the same back.
The i3 is designed to be a city car. Assuming that your 52-mile commute is mostly high-speed highway, the Volt would probably be a better choice.

danix said:
trunk is tiny
We rarely have rear-seat passengers, so we leave the rear seats folded down. This creates a quite large cargo area with a flat floor.

danix said:
I have to hit the power button twice to turn off the car?
If you want the car to power down immediately, yes. But if you don't press the start-stop button a second time, the car will power down completely within a few minutes.
 
Today is my last day with the i3. Additional thoughts.

  • the handling grows on you but I still think it's too choppy for sustained highway use. Bet it would make a great autocrosser though!
  • basic audio system has only 2 speakers (no rear). Is the premium audio system the same way?
  • car failed to charge overnight once, not sure why. It had lit up blue and was set to immediate charge.
  • front tires appear to show visible wear with only 490 miles on the car. I don't see those lasting very long.
  • heated seats and headlights are both better than the Volt
  • automatic cruise control works but decelerates so much when a car is ahead, you cause a hazardous situation with the guy behind you getting right up in there.

Still on the fence. I felt the same way about the Volt before I bought it, and it grew on me, but never became a car I loved.
 
Front pressures are much lower than rear - I assume that's due to the sizes. Side to side were comparable and in the normal range I think. I will recheck.
Keep in mind I used to have a 335d with Msport, so I am used to a stiff ride. This is harsh, not just stiff, with occasional bump steer.
 
If you're looking for better turn-in, you might prefer the handling with the fronts at 38 psi or higher.

The tire wear you mentioned suggests that pressures were likely improperly set for the previous drivers, as tire wear in general hasn't been an issue with the i3.

With that said, I am getting significant shoulder wear due to the lack of camber adjustability up front, but that's due to my driving style.
 
The i3 is a city car. It works best 0 to 45mph, in stop and go traffic. If you need sustained highway performance, you should look at other vehicles.
 
stumbledotcom said:
The i3 is a city car. It works best 0 to 45mph, in stop and go traffic. If you need sustained highway performance, you should look at other vehicles.

Don't need sustained highway performance, but as you know SF Bay Area traffic can go from a 5mph parking lot to 75mph sustained depending on time of day.
 
Dynamically there is nothing about an i3 that you can't get used to or learn to love..... The little software quirks like the double tap to shut the car off are another thing entirely...... I hate to walk away from a car in a parking lot with the music and lights on, but it gets really annoying to have to follow such a silly procedure (don't have your foot on the brake!) to just turn the damn thing off. It become one of those things that you hate, but put up with.....
 
The double-tap is not unique to the i3...my other BMW does the same thing, so when I got the i3, it was already second nature. If you lock the car, things get shut off then, too.
 
danix said:
basic audio system has only 2 speakers (no rear). Is the premium audio system the same way?
The basic audio system has 4 speakers, but they're all in front. The premium audio system has 12 or 13 speakers with some in back (I have the basic audio system, so I'll let someone else describe the premium audio system).

danix said:
automatic cruise control works but decelerates so much when a car is ahead, you cause a hazardous situation with the guy behind you getting right up in there.
When deceleration exceeds a certain level, the brake lights illuminate even without pressing the brake pedal, so the following car is warned. The difference might be that ACC maintains a safer separation interval between you and the car in front than most following cars do, so following drivers need to pay attention.

Adaptive cruise control (ACC) shouldn't decelerate any faster than the car in front is decelerating because it tries to maintain the separation interval (in time) between you and the car in front. However, if one is farther back than the separation interval and the car in front slows down or stops, ACC doesn't start decelerating as fast as I would which results in greater deceleration as one nears the car in front. If this happens frequently, I can usually minimize this effect by increasing the separation interval or temporarily turning off ACC to start decelerating earlier.
 
SOme things can confuse the camera on the ACC, and shut it off entirely and when that happens, it's the same as if you let off on the go pedal all the way - IOW, there is no coasting, it goes into maximum regeneration. On a really bright day, narrow winding, tree-lined road, it could happen a lot from the deep shadows. IT can also see crossing cars, people, dogs, and other animals, and if it calculates that they could be in its path, slow or stop. Once you've used the car often enough, you learn to anticipate that and can just apply a little pressure to keep going. YOu always have the option of turning the ACC functionality off and using it like a conventional cruise control - this disables the camera, at least for traffic following. The ACC is a driving aid...you still have to be the main driver. It is convenient in that it will slow and accelerate with traffic while maintaining a nice gap which a conventional cc won't do, and will never exceed your set speed (within margins). I'd probably consider it again on my next car as well after now having used it. I ended up with it because I needed the reversing camera because of physical considerations - it's really hard to twist and look, and it was available only in the package.

FWIW, I think the manufacturers in the USA have until 2017 model year to include backup cameras as standard equipment, and are required to incrementally include it in more each model year until that happens. So, it may no longer become part of a package, since it will be required to be there (but not yet!).
 
jadnashuanh said:
The ACC is a driving aid...you still have to be the main driver. It is convenient in that it will slow and accelerate with traffic while maintaining a nice gap which a conventional cc won't do, and will never exceed your set speed (within margins). I'd probably consider it again on my next car as well after now having used it. I ended up with it because I needed the reversing camera because of physical considerations - it's really hard to twist and look, and it was available only in the package.
The backup camera is included in the Parking Assist Package while ACC is included in the Tech + Driving Assist Package.

Many of us with the Parking Assist Package wanted just the backup camera, but that wasn't an option. The Park Distance Control is a nice part of this package as well.

Besides ACC Stop & Go Drive Assist, the Tech + Driving Assist Package also includes the Navigational Professional System with its wide screen plus advanced real-time traffic information.
 
I do when I am not at home. But why lock it in the garage or in the driveway? What's to steal: an old iPod and a few pairs of cheap sunglasses? I've been here 16 years and every morning that stuff is still there! ;)

Actually I am not truly convinced that locking the car will turn off the lights and music......It takes a while for me to learn to trust systems on a timer......
 
WoodlandHills said:
I do when I am not at home. But why lock it in the garage or in the driveway? What's to steal: an old iPod and a few pairs of cheap sunglasses? I've been here 16 years and every morning that stuff is still there! ;)

I don't lock mine in the garage either, but I enjoy the music playing until I can't hear it any more ;)
 
WoodlandHills said:
Actually I am not truly convinced that locking the car will turn off the lights and music

Try it. As soon as you lock it the music is killed instantly.
 
danix said:
the handling grows on you but I still think it's too choppy for sustained highway use.

I guess this perception depends on your previous vehicles. Long wheelbase tends to reduce the pitch when going over bumps and short wheelbase tends to accentuate it. I think you said you have a Volt? The Volt has 2685mm wheelbase and the i3 has 2570mm wheelbase. So in US lingo, the difference is ~4 inches or about 5%. It would make a small but not huge difference.

Tyres can make a difference, pressure and size. The Volt has about 20mm extra sidewall height compared to the i3.

Perhaps the suspension settings on the i3 are stiffer than the Volt, that could make a more significant difference. The i3 has the BMW family suspension feel and compliance which makes the driver and passengers feel more connected with the road. I have never been in a Volt, but other GM vehicles I've been in have been soft to very soft compared to a BMW.

My previous car was a MkIV VW Golf. It had KW suspension and a 2512mm wheelbase. I wouldn't call either 'choppy' and the BMW feels softer than the VW. Without the KW suspension, the Golf would have been softer than the i3.
 
Returned the i3 and got back in my Volt tonight.
Power is definitely less. Suspension is more compliant (more comfortable ride, more predictable response over bumps).
Steering feels much lighter in the Volt.

Do I miss the i3? I'm not totally sure.
I rechecked the tire pressures in the i3 and they were all green - 30s for the front, 40s in the rear sound right?

I do want to try it without the 20" rims.

Like I said, I've had a long line of german cars including a 335d Msport and it wasn't as choppy over bumps.
Going to sleep on it.
 
The 19" wheels do ride a bit differently. Plus, depending on where you live, the 20" are summer performance tires and lousy when it gets nasty out there which may mean you must buy new wheels and winter tires to remain safe and maintain best performance and safety. The 19" comes in two configurations, but the REx in 19" only one where the rears are wider than the front (wider in the rear is optional on some, standard on others depending on trim). Staggered setups mean you can't rotate the tires, but most people don't do that anyway (it does help, though).

The fact the TPMS showed green isn't a valid indication...it just means that when it was reset, the tires have not dropped much, it does not indicate what was there was actually the proper pressure which is indicated on all modern cars on a sticker. People have said (and I found it true on mine) that the factory pressure recommendation is a good match, and lower does affect the handling, tracking, and overall feel.
 
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