i3 rex wiring diagram/workshop manual

[busaman]

i am looking for i3 rex wiring diagram/workshop manual i had it and a link to it on the net but i have lost both does anyone know where it is or have a copy.

 

[alohart]

Eleven chapters of the BMW i training manual can be found at here. Missing are the cover page, 00_ST1403a Cover.pdf, and chapter 2, 02_Handling BMW i Vehicles.pdf, which would probably be interesting. Anyone know where these could be found?

Unfortunately, unlike Honda (our Insight) and Mitsubishi (our former i-MiEV), BMW apparently doesn't make its i3 workshop manuals available for purchase.

 

[Sparky]

PM me.

 

[Sparky]

Never mind Alohart beat me to it.

 

[nunaat]

Hi guys i am trying to get work for my i3 pedestrian warning code 4u9. I paid for it in dealer but it doesnt work. I need help about wiring and ecu and try to do fdl coding. Its a very bad situation about bmw that sell options and doesnt work and they dont answer about it.
thanks a lot

 

[brorob]

Thanks Art!

 

[bwilson4web]

Eleven chapters of the BMW i training manual can be found at here. Missing are the cover page, 00_ST1403a Cover.pdf, and chapter 2, 02_Handling BMW i Vehicles.pdf, which would probably be interesting. Anyone know where these could be found?

Unfortunately, unlike Honda (our Insight) and Mitsubishi (our former i-MiEV), BMW apparently doesn't make its i3 workshop manuals available for purchase.

I was surprised not to find anything in the Owner's Manual about fuses. So when I looked at the schematic, I see an NPN transistor symbol. This makes sense for computer control circuits but it could also with a little 'glue logic' be a current limiter, the wire protecting fuse or circuit breaker protection. I didn't see anything in the manuals giving me the details.

What I was looking for with fuses are the current limits. There are 'part numbers' for these clever switch-limiters but nothing that relates to their current limit. Is there a 'decoder' table I've not found yet that would tell us the current limits? I have another application where I would love to eliminate the overhead of fuses/circuit breakers. What are these things called?

Also, I found a non-technical description of the EVSE that comes with the car BUT no technical details about what causes the "fault in the voltage supply." At first, I thought this red light came on if an outlet is not properly grounded … OK. But my kitchen circuit worked on two overnight charges but gave a fault on the third. I have a 'Kill-a-Watt' on the fridge and it showed 118VAC. So unless there is a loose ground wire (possible) the fault does not make sense.

Today I tried the kitchen circuit again, the fourth attempt, and it is working just fine (still GREEN and charging.) So I'll turn off the circuit breaker and rework the socket this weekend. Original to the house, it probably needs replacement anyway. But one quote has me 'scratching my head.'

• "can be used up to a current level of 16 A or up to a carging power 3.7 kW." (pp. 94)

3700W/16A = 231.25V

What this suggests is if I change the plug to work with our unused, electric dryer circuit, this unit might easily (and for a low cost) give a reasonably fast charge rate. Has anyone tried the experiment, replacing the 120 VAC feed with a 208/240 VAC?

Thanks,
Bob Wilson

 

[alohart]

I was surprised not to find anything in the Owner's Manual about fuses.

There are fuses because some owners have temporarily unplugged a fuse to force the mobile phone transceiver to reboot. The fuses might be described as outlined in this thread.

"can be used up to a current level of 16 A or up to a carging power 3.7 kW." (pp. 94)

3700W/16A = 231.25V

What this suggests is if I change the plug to work with our unused, electric dryer circuit, this unit might easily (and for a low cost) give a reasonably fast charge rate. Has anyone tried the experiment, replacing the 120 VAC feed with a 208/240 VAC?

As you are probably learning, the i3 Owner's Manual is a pretty poor translation from German, seems to cover all markets, and is not very comprehensive. The above description probably applies to the EVSE included with i3's in German markets and maybe all markets with 230 v. residential power.

Apparently the Owner's Manual in iDrive is tailored to the options delivered with one's car in one's market.

 

[bwilson4web]

Thanks!

Apparently the Owner's Manual in iDrive is tailored to the options delivered with one's car in one's market.

Hummm, I'm not thrilled about sitting in the car for a long time to read it. I was thinking it might be more of a reference. Regardless, time to try it out.

FYI, it appears the Leaf market has some EVSEs, 3d party, that are designed to use multiple voltage sources. This would be a more conservative approach rather than trying an experiment that might 'let the smoke out.'

Bob Wilson

 

[jadnashuanh]

There are at least a couple of multi-voltage EVSEs out there. The same pins are used in the plug to the car. The only part that would need to be multi-voltage in the EVSE is the power supply that generates the pilot signal and the other interface interlock signals. Those that are multi-voltage, either come with or have as optional, adapter plugs to allow them to be plugged into various different receptacles.

The EVSE's pilot signal is a PWM square wave, the width announces the maximum current the device can provide to the car. THe other voltages and signals are used to detect when the plug is inserted and the latch pin is locked, and then the car applies a resister to another circuit that tells the EVSE to apply the ACV.

FWIW, the standard allows multi-phase charging, which adds another pin to the plug. Big users, like busses and trucks tend to use that, but in Europe, at least one country supports it in residential areas.

 

[bwilson4web]

Sharendipity, the solution is easy. I can get (make) an adapter for the 220V dryer outlet, NEMA 10-30, that provides two 110VAC outlets, one on each leg. Properly grounded, mechanically affixed, and I can let the i3 run at maximum, L1 rate, 15A vs 10A. For good measure, use ground-fault protected outlets.

Since it is likely I'll fabricate the adapter, it will probably have 'metrics' but we can chat about that another day.

Bob Wilson

 

[alohart]

Properly grounded, mechanically affixed, and I can let the i3 run at maximum, L1 rate, 15A vs 10A.

I recall reading an owner's report that the i3's maximum L1 charging current is ~30A if one has an EVSE that can deliver 30A. The L1 EVSE included with 2014 and early 2015 North American (NA) i3's is limited to 12A with later versions limited to 10A, regardless of the capacity of the 120V circuit into which it is plugged. Even if the NA i3's L1 EVSE is actually capable of L2 charging at 208/240V (still to be proven, AFAIK), it is almost certainly limited to either 10A or 12A.

If you have to buy an L1 EVSE so that you can charge at more than the 10-12A limit of the NA i3's EVSE, you might as well buy an L2 EVSE because the few higher power L1 EVSE's don't cost much less than a much higher power L2 EVSE.

 

[jadnashuanh]

Each EVSE is internally programmed to produce a signal to the vehicle that tells it the maximum current it can draw. The vehicle then will draw what it wants up to, but no higher than, what the EVSE had announced was available. Internal to the i3, the menu can further limit the maximum the vehicle will draw, but it wouldn't matter if you plugged an EVSE into something capable of 100A, the i3 would only draw a max of 7400W (amps would depend on the voltage applied).

 

[gt1]

Still no service manual?
I'd like to hardwire a dashcam. Need to know the correct way to remove the overhead console and to find +5 or +12V there.

 

[jadnashuanh]

Dealers, and those that are willing to pay for online access, get the digital version that is kept updated regularly by corporate...IOW, they do not print hard copies.