Cruise Control +/- button worn out

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Zwerius

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
80
Location
Ootmarsum, The Netherlands
Hi,
I'm having my 2nd i3 and have the same problem again.
My +/- button of the cruise control is worn out. After about 100k km.
First, the "edges" of the button became "round" and later the rubber coating tore.
Anyone having the same problems?
And can this button be bought as a separate part? Or is it in a set, including the set, reset, on/off button?


cruise control.jpg
 
In the meantime I know that exchanging the button unit does cost around € 450,- (including labour).
I also know that I can order just the button at Ali Expres for around € 5,- (including shipping).
At youtube I found a few video's on how to replace the button, but because of the airbag, I should disconnect the 12V minus first. Sounds logical (and safe).
But I don't know what happens to the i3 when I disconnect the 12V minus.
How does it start up again? Just reconnecting the 12V- ? Or does it require some reset after that? Anyone who replaced a battery?
 
As far as I know, before disconnecting the 12v battery, you need to wait about 20-30 minutes after shutting down the car, so the car is in sleeping mode. If you then open the frunk, the car will wake up again so first open the frunk, then wait. This way you may avoid some error codes and you can disconnect the battery without awaking the car. This is the way I did it when replacing the 12v battery, hope I am right.
 
Disconnecting 12v- and then re-connecting: Time/Date may need to be reset and any re-settable Trip odometers get reset. That's it. Any stored Profiles remain as well as any other settings. That's all I noticed when changing my 12v but it was only disconnected for about 15 minutes. Not sure if anything different happens if you leave it disconnected for a longer period of time (like hours/days long)
 
Disconnecting 12v- and then re-connecting: Time/Date may need to be reset and any re-settable Trip odometers get reset. That's it. Any stored Profiles remain as well as any other settings. That's all I noticed when changing my 12v but it was only disconnected for about 15 minutes. Not sure if anything different happens if you leave it disconnected for a longer period of time (like hours/days long)
I've left the negative 12V battery cable disconnected for periods of 3 to 9 months on at least 6 occasions. Nothing more happens than what you've described. I did back up the driver profiles to a USB flash drive using an iDrive command to protect against losing them, but I've never had to restore them from these backups.

After waiting ~30 minutes for the HV system to turn off, I've always disconnected the HV disconnect to make sure that the HV system doesn't turn on. This is a step that BMW recommends.
 
In the meantime I know that exchanging the button unit does cost around € 450,- (including labour).
I also know that I can order just the button at Ali Expres for around € 5,- (including shipping).
At youtube I found a few video's on how to replace the button, but because of the airbag, I should disconnect the 12V minus first. Sounds logical (and safe).
But I don't know what happens to the i3 when I disconnect the 12V minus.
How does it start up again? Just reconnecting the 12V- ? Or does it require some reset after that? Anyone who replaced a battery?
let us know how you get on with the new button
 
My cruise button is also wearing out... I use it constantly around town and highways basically always... Why disconnect the 12 volt? I put the traffic jam assist in and I didn't disconnect battery... Good luck and can you share the Ali link? Ty..
 
My cruise button is also wearing out... I use it constantly around town and highways basically always... Why disconnect the 12 volt? I put the traffic jam assist in and I didn't disconnect battery... Good luck and can you share the Ali link? Ty.
Presumably to avoid accidentally setting off the steering wheel airbag -- a reasonable precaution, IMO.
 
Presumably to avoid accidentally setting off the steering wheel airbag -- a reasonable precaution, IMO.
I guess that depends on whether there is any chance that the airbag could be deployed based on the steps necessary to replace the cruise control switch. Does anyone know specifically what would cause the airbag to deploy in that instance?

Also, I use mine constantly also. Is there anything in the way it is used that can be done to prevent premature failure? Since this problem is only being reported by a few, perhaps it's how its being pressed?
 
I guess that depends on whether there is any chance that the airbag could be deployed based on the steps necessary to replace the cruise control switch. Does anyone know specifically what would cause the airbag to deploy in that instance?
Transient voltage across the leads to the squib. That's about all I can think of. There are no airbag sensors in the wheel, just the bag + its charge.

It must be a pretty well protected wiring setup since it's in a rotating steering wheel with a bunch of other electrical connections, so probably more of a CYA liability precaution than anything else. It could be looked upon as being irresponsible to suggest to somebody to skip this step, if you know what I'm getting at!
 
Yeh prob overkill

Have replaced my 12v 1x and fitted a voltage Bluetooth transmitter 1x with some sparking going on, nuthin happened
 
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